Which is used in electrical circuits for data processing. It can often be found in smart home systems. There are many modifications of this element, which differ in conductivity, voltage and maximum overload. It is also worth noting that the models are produced with various components. If necessary, the device can be assembled independently. However, for this it is worth familiarizing yourself with the modification scheme.
The usual model includes a transistor, which is powered by an adapter, as well as a chain of transceivers. There is a relay to maintain a stable current. Contactors for controllers are used in different directions. The rectifier blocks of the controllers are installed with plates. Capacitors in many models are available with low-pass filters.
If necessary, you can make an Arduino UNO controller with your own hands. For this purpose, two transceivers and one lining are used. Capacitors are allowed to be used with a conductivity of 50 microns. The operating frequency of the elements is at the level of 300 Hz. A regulator is used to set the transistor. Filters can be soldered at the beginning of the circuit. Quite often they are installed transitional type. In this case, the transceivers are allowed to use the extension type.
Assembling the Arduino UNO R3 with your own hands is quite simple. For this purpose, it will be necessary to prepare a transition type transceiver that operates from an adapter. The stabilizer is allowed to be used with a conductivity of 40 microns. The operating frequency of the controller will be about 400 Hz. Experts advise not to use conductive transistors, since they are not able to work with wave interference. Many models are made with self-regulating transceivers. Their connectors are connected with a conductivity of 340 microns. for controllers of this series is at least 200 V.
You can make an Arduino Mega with your own hands only on the basis of a collector transceiver. Contactors are often installed with adapters, and their sensitivity is at least 2 mV. Some experts recommend the use of inverting filters, but we must remember that they cannot work at a lower frequency. Transistors are used only conductor type. The rectifier unit is installed last. If there are problems with conductivity, experts recommend checking the rated voltage of the device and installing capacitance capacitors.
Assembling the Arduino Shield controller with your own hands is quite simple. For this purpose, the transceiver can be prepared for two adapters. The transistor is allowed to be used with a lining and a conductivity of 40 microns. The operating frequency of the controller of this series is at least 500 Hz. The element is operated at a voltage of 200 V. The regulator for modification will be required on the triode. The converter must be installed so that the transceiver does not burn out. Filters are often of the variable type.
DIY Arduino Nano controller is made with two transceivers. For assembly, a pole-type stabilizer is used. In total, two small capacitors are required. The transistor is installed with a filter. The triode in this case must operate at a frequency of at least 400 Hz. The rated voltage of the controllers of this series is 200 V. If we talk about other indicators, it is worth noting that the sensitivity is at least 3 mV. The relay for assembly will be required with a strainer.
To do with an SMD transistor (Arduino), you only need one transceiver. To maintain a stable frequency, two capacitors are installed. Their capacitance must be at least 5 pF. To install the thyristor, a conventional wire adapter is used. Stabilizers at the beginning of the circuit are installed on a diode basis. The conductivity of the elements must be at least 55 microns. You should also pay attention to the insulation of capacitors. To reduce the number of failures in the system, it is recommended to use only converter comparators with low sensitivity. It is also worth noting that there are wave analogues. Their sensitivity index is 200 mV. Regulators are only suitable for duplex type.
Transistors of this series have excellent conductivity and are able to work with output converters of different frequencies. The user is capable of making a modification with his own hands on the basis of a conductor transceiver. Its contacts are connected directly through the capacitor unit. It is also worth noting that the regulator is installed behind the transceiver.
When assembling the controller, it is recommended to use capacitive triodes with low thermal losses. They have high sensitivity, and conductivity is at the level of 55 microns. If you use a simple transition type stabilizer, then the filter is applied with a lining. Experts say that tetrodes are allowed to be installed with a comparator. However, it is worth considering all the risks of failures in the operation of the capacitor unit.
Transistors DD1 provide high speed response with little heat loss. To assemble an Arduino controller with your own hands, it is recommended to prepare a transceiver. It is more expedient to use a linear analog, which has a high conductivity. It should also be noted that the market is full of single-pole modifications, and their sensitivity index is at the level of 60 mV. For a quality controller, this is clearly not enough.
The regulator is standard installed duplex type. The triode for the model is selected on a diode basis. The comparator itself is installed at the beginning of the circuit. It must work with a resistance of at least 50 ohms. In this case, the rated voltage must be about 230 V.
Transistors DD2 are operated with a conductivity of 300 microns. They have high sensitivity, but they can only operate at high frequencies. For this purpose, an expansion transceiver is installed on the controller. Next, to make an Arduino with your own hands, a wire switch is taken. The output contacts of the element are connected to the relay. The resistance at the switch must be at least 55 ohms.
Additionally, it is worth checking the resistance on the capacitor unit. If this parameter exceeds 30 ohms, then the filter is used with a triode. The thyristor is installed with one stabilizer. In some cases, rectifiers are soldered behind the transistors. These elements not only maintain frequency stability, but also partially solve the problem with conductivity.
Assembling the Arduino controller with your own hands (based on the L7805 transistor) is quite simple. The transceiver for the model will be required with a mesh filter. The conductivity of the element must be at least 40 microns. Additionally, it is worth noting that capacitors are allowed to use a binary type. Experts say that the rated voltage should not exceed 200 V. In this case, the sensitivity depends on many factors. The comparator is most often installed on the controller with a linear adapter. At the output, a diode-based triode is soldered. A single-pass filter is used to stabilize the conversion process.
To properly make an Arduino controller with your own hands, it is recommended to choose a high-voltage transceiver. The conductivity of the element must be at least 400 microns with a sensitivity of 50 mV. Contactors in this case are installed at the output of the circuit. The relay is allowed to use low conductivity, but it is important to pay attention to the limit voltage indicator, which should not exceed 210 V. The triode can only be installed behind the lining.
It is also worth noting that the controller will require one converter. The capacitor box is used with two low conductivity filters. The level of output impedance of the element depends on the type of comparator. It is mainly used on a dipole adapter. However, there are impulse analogues.
Transistors of this series have a conductivity of 400 microns, and they have good sensitivity. To make a controller with your own hands, it is recommended to use a dipole transceiver. However, filters for it are only suitable with a winding. Experts say that the contactor should be installed with an adapter. In this case, a linear component is well suited, and the nominal voltage in the circuit must be at least 200 V. Thus, the operating frequency of the controller will not fall below 35 Hz.
Arduino is a versatile DIY platform for microcontrollers. There are many shields (expansion boards) and sensors for it. This diversity allows you to make a number of interesting projects aimed at improving your life and increasing its comfort. The areas of application of the board are endless: automation, security systems, systems for collecting and analyzing data, and so on.
From this article you will learn what you can do interesting things on Arduino. Which projects will be spectacular, and which ones will be useful.
What can be done with Arduino
robot vacuum cleaner
Cleaning the apartment is a routine and unattractive task, especially since it takes time. You can save it if some of the household chores are assigned to the robot. This robot was assembled by an electronics engineer from Sochi - Dmitry Ivanov. Structurally, it turned out to be of sufficient quality and is not inferior in efficiency.
To assemble it you will need:
1. Arduino Pro-mini, or any other similar and suitable size...
2. USB to TTL adapter if you are using Pro mini. If you chose the Arduino Nano, then you don't need it. It is already installed on the board.
3. L298N driver is needed to control and reverse DC motors.
4. Small engines with gears and wheels.
5. 6 IR sensors.
6. Engine for the turbine (larger).
7. The turbine itself, or rather the impeller from the vacuum cleaner.
8. Motor for brushes (small).
9. 2 collision sensors.
10. 4 x 18650 batteries.
11. 2 DC-DC converters (boost and step-down).
13. Controller for operation (charge and discharge) of batteries.
The control system looks like this:
And here is the power system:
Such cleaners are evolving, factory-made models have complex intelligent algorithms, but you can try to make your own design that will not be inferior in quality to expensive counterparts.
Able to produce a luminous flux of any color, they usually use LEDs in the body of which there are three crystals glowing in different colors. They are sold to control them, their essence lies in regulating the current supplied to each of the colors of the LED strip, therefore, the intensity of the glow of each of the three colors is regulated (separately).
You can make your own RGB controller on Arduino, even more, this project implements control via Bluetooth.
The photo shows an example of using a single RGB LED. To control the tape, an additional 12V power supply is required, then the gates of the field effect transistors included in the circuit will be controlled. The gate charge current is limited by 10 kΩ resistors, they are installed between the Arduino pin and the gate, in series with it.
Using a microcontroller, you can make a universal remote control controlled from a mobile phone.
For this you will need:
Arduino of any model;
IR receiver TSOP1138;
IR LED;
Bluetooth module HC-05 or HC-06.
The project can read codes from factory remotes and store their values. After that, you can control this homemade product via Bluetooth.
The webcam is mounted on a rotary mechanism. It is connected to a computer with installed software. It is based on the computer vision library - OpenCV (Open Source Computer Vision Library), after the program detects a face, the coordinates of its movement are transmitted via a USB cable.
The Arduino gives a command to the drive of the rotary mechanism and positions the camera lens. A pair of servos are used to move the camera.
The video shows the operation of this device.
Watch your animals!
The idea is to find out where your animal is walking, this can be of interest for scientific research and just for fun. To do this, you need to use a GPS tracker. But to store location data on some drive.
At the same time, the dimensions of the device play a decisive role here, since the animal should not feel discomfort from it. To record data, you can use it to work with Micro-SD memory cards.
Below is a diagram of the original version of the device.
The original version of the project used the TinyDuino board and shields for it. If you can't find one, you can use small Arduinos: mini, micro, nano.
For power, a Li-ion element of small capacity was used. The small battery lasts for about 6 hours. The author ended up fitting everything in a cut-off tic-tac jar. It is worth noting that the GPS antenna must point upwards in order to receive valid sensor readings.
Combination lock breaker
To crack code locks with Arduino, you will need a servo and stepper motor. This project was developed by hacker Samy Kamkar. This is a rather complex project. The operation of this device is shown in the video, where the author tells all the details.
Of course, such a device is hardly suitable for practical use, but this is an excellent demonstration.
Arduino in music
This is more likely not a project, but a small demonstration of how this platform has been used by musicians.
Drum machine on Arduino. It is noteworthy that this is not an ordinary enumeration of recorded samples, but, in principle, sound generation using "iron" devices.
Detail ratings:
NPN-type transistor, for example 2n3904 - 1 pc.
Resistor 1 kOhm (R2, R4, R5) - 3 pcs.
330 Ohm (R6) - 1 pc.
10 kOhm (R1) - 1 pc.
100 kOhm (R3) - 1 pc.
Electrolytic capacitor 3.3 uF - 1 pc.
For the project to work, you will need to connect the library for fast expansion into a Fourier series.
This is a fairly simple and interesting project from the category of "you can brag to your friends."
3 robot projects
Robotics is one of the most interesting areas for geeks and just those who like to do something unusual with their own hands, I decided to make a selection of several interesting projects.
BEAM-robot on Arduino
To assemble a four-legged walking robot, you will need:
Servo motors are needed to move the legs, for example, Tower Hobbies TS-53;
A piece of copper wire of medium thickness (to withstand the weight of the structure and not bend, but not too thick, because it does not make sense);
Microcontroller - AVR ATMega 8 or Arduino board of any model;
For the chassis in the project, it is indicated that the Sintra Frame was used. It is something like plastic, it bends into any shape when heated.
As a result you will get:
It is noteworthy that this robot does not drive, but walks, can step over and go to elevations up to 1 cm.
For some reason, this project reminded me of a robot from the Wall-e cartoon. Its feature is the use for charging batteries. It moves like a car, on 4 wheels.
Its component parts:
Plastic bottle of suitable size;
Jumpers mom-dad;
Solar panel with an output voltage of 6V;
As a donor of wheels, engines and other parts - a radio-controlled car;
Two continuous rotation servos;
Two conventional servos (180 degrees);
Holder for AA batteries and for the "crown";
Collision sensor;
LEDs, photoresistors, 10 kΩ fixed resistors - 4 in total;
Diode 1n4001.
Here is the basis - the Arduino board with a proto-shield.
This is how spare parts from - wheels look like.
The design is almost complete, the sensors are installed.
The essence of the work of the robot is that it goes to the light. Abundance he needs to navigate.
This is more of a CNC machine than a robot, but the project is very entertaining. It is a 2 axis drawing machine. Here is a list of the main components of which it consists:
(DVD) CD drives - 2 pcs;
2 drivers for stepper motors A498;
servo MG90S;
Arduino Uno;
Power supply 12V;
Ballpoint pen, and other design elements.
From the optical disc drive, blocks with a stepper motor and a guide rod are used, which positioned the optical head. From these blocks, the engine, shaft and carriage are removed.
You won’t be able to control a stepper motor without additional equipment, therefore, special driver boards are used, it is better if a motor radiator is installed on them at the time of starting or changing the direction of rotation.
The complete assembly and operation process is shown in this video.
See also 16 best Arduino projects from AlexGyver:
Conclusion
This article is just a small drop of what you can do on this popular platform. In fact, it all depends on your imagination and the task that you set for yourself.
Step 1 Introduction. 
Questions, how and what to do, but why do I need it?
After surfing through tons of information about Arduino... from making an LED cube, to making a Smart Home, to making flying drones...
you, like me, feverishly began to look for more or less acceptable information about the manufacture of this almighty board.
"Damn it, I want one!" or "I want to do this. Right now." And all the possible applications of this device are spinning in my head,
hands themselves begin to look for details for the board, go to the Internet, and there:
ARDUINO.Only $25.
And that's all.
All combinations fell out of my head.
Hopelessness.
You don't know how to live.
And then you stumble upon this site!
You are saved!
After all, right now we will assemble an ARDUINO-compatible board in 15 minutes and for only about 300 rubles!
Step 2 Get it now!
You need these components:
-Bread board
-ATMega 328
- Ready-made Arduino board (* and again a translator - instead of an arduino, you can use any programmer, even "5 wires")
-1 resonator at 16MHz
-3 100 ohm resistors
-1 10kΩ resistor
-2 capacitors at 22pF
-3 LEDs (red, yellow and green)
-1 battery type "Krona" (9 volts) with a counterpart
- USB cable
-1 voltage stabilizer "Krenka"
-Computer, laptop with Arduino IDE installed.
And that's all.
Step 3. Start assembly.
Take a breadboard and fix the microcontroller so that its legs are not closed (it should be above the "groove")
Step 4. Connecting Krenki.
Place Krenka on the breadboard next to the MK.
Pinout Krenki:
-VCC(outside power)
-GND(Ground.Common)
-output
Connect the black wire to GND. Connect the other end to the "GND" bus on the breadboard.
Connect VCC to the power rail+ on the breadboard.
And throw Output where the chip will be powered.
Step 5. We supply power to the MK.
Study the pinout well ATMegi.
Connect the Output KRENKs and GND of the breadboard, respectively, to the Output (7 and 20 pins) and GND (8 and 22 pins) of the MK.
Step 6. Let's add precision.
Connect a 22pF capacitor between GND and pin 9 of the ATMega.
And the second capacitor between the 10th pin of the ATMega and, again, the ground.
Add a 10k resistor between 5v and RESET(1 pin).
Step 7. Add LEDs.
Plug the wire anywhere on the board.
Connect a 100 ohm resistor to one end of the wire (see picture)
Connect the long diode leg (+) of the yellow diode to the other end of the resistor.
Connect the short leg(-) to ground.
Repeat for the red and green diodes.
Step 8. We connect all this to ARDUINO.
We've come a long way, though!
Connect the yellow diode to pin 9 of the Arduino.
The yellow diode indicates the operation of the programmer.
Connect the red diode to pin 8 of the Arduino.
It lights up if something went wrong.
And connect the green diode to pin 7.
It shows the upload status of the bootloader.
Connect 4 wires (3 yellow and green in the picture) to the ATMega pins on the breadboard (see picture).
And then these wires to 10-13 Arduino pins.
Don't forget to connect 5 and GND of Arduino and Breadboard!
Step 9. Programming.
Phew, we got to filling the bootloader.
How, you ask?
AK like this!
1) Launch the Arduino IDE.
2) Select File-Examples-Arduino ISP.
3) Compile the sketch and upload it to Arduino.
After uploading the sketch, you will see that the yellow LED starts blinking.
Now add a 100 ohm resistor between ground and Arduino reset.
Step 10. Actually filling the bootloader.
In the Arduino IDE select:
Tools-Board-Arduino Duemilkanove with AtMega 328
Tools-Programmer-Arduino as ISP.
And again in the Tools menu. Go in and click "Burn Bootloader"
The firmware will start (takes about a minute)
"Done Burning Bootloader" will appear on the screen.
If something goes wrong, the red diode lights up, then it didn’t work out. [email protected].
Voila! You have your Arduino!
Happy work!
Well, it's time to master the duino platform on your own. First, let's figure out what we might need. For starters, it would not be bad to decide on the basis of what we will make our copy of the debug board. To simplify the initial task, I suggest using a USB-(UART)TTL adapter to upload sketches. This will make our life much easier. personally, I will use a cheap adapter ordered from a now defunct online store, but it still works.
When building our Duino, we will try to use the minimum number of elements. As we develop, we will add the necessary components.
For reference, we will find diagrams of various platforms on the official website:
In my opinion, the schemes are good, but it would be nice to see the already proven implementations of "homemade", I really liked 3 options:
We will build a minimum harness for our device. At the first stage of the details, a minimum is needed:
Actually the atmega328P MK itself (in my case, although 168 and 8 can also be used)
Quartz 16 MHz
Capacitor 22pF x 2pcs.
10k resistor
Reset button (any, by the way, not a required element)
That's basically all that is minimally necessary for the operation of the microcontroller. I propose to illustrate and design all our works in a very good Fritzing program:
Well, let's see why these elements are needed. The button allows you to restart the microcontroller, resistor R1 is a pull-up resistor for the button. Crystal, C1 and C2 are the external clock generator for the controller.
This is a necessary and sufficient binding, but personally I strongly recommend that you install a 100nF ceramic capacitor in parallel with the main power supply of the microcircuit.
Well, our minimal Duino is ready. In order to make it more convenient to use this debugging tool, I suggest sticking a hint with the "atmega" pinout on the case. My version is implemented in Corel Draw:
First, let's assemble the circuit of our Duino on a solderless breadboard, here's what I got:
To upload sketches, we will use a USB - TTL adapter, in the photo is my already pretty shabby adapter based on the CP2102 chip:
But before uploading the sketches, it is necessary to upload the bootloader to the MK, otherwise, it will not "understand" what we want from it. There are many ways, but we will use the simplest. Using the wonderful USBasp programmer:
First, let's connect our Duino to the programmer, it's very simple, just connect the programmer's contacts to the Duino:
GND - ground (22 feet)
MOSI - MOSI (d11)
5V - power supply "+" (7 leg)
Then Arduino IDE -> Tools -> "Write Bootloader":
During the bootloader recording process, you will have to wait about 2 minutes. After that, various "warnings" may fall out to us, such as "can not set SCK period" - do not get scared and move on.
Well, here we are ready to record the "Blink" test sketch into our newly minted Duino, but there is one point, and I would like to dwell on it. As we already said, a serial port is used to record sketches, but in the "normal" life of the MK these are digital ports 0 and 1. It's very simple, we have already uploaded the bootloader, it initializes the recording of a new firmware when it is turned on for a few seconds, after that Duino starts execute the program that is stored in her memory.
To put the Duino into the "receive" mode, you need to restart the MK, for this we made a special button, but you need to press it strictly at a certain moment, this is not at all suitable for us. Fortunately, there is a special "RST" pin on the adapters, which is enough to connect to 1 leg of the MK, in order to automatically reboot the Duino before loading the sketch. The connection is very simple, (adapter - Duino):
GND - ground (22 feet)
RXD - connect to TXD (3 leg)
TXD - connect to KXD (2 legs)
5V - power supply "+" (7 leg)
As you noticed, the receive / transmit contacts are connected crosswise. And everything would be fine, but there is one "but": there are a huge number of adapters, and to automatically reset the MK, you need to introduce a 100pF capacitor into the RST circuit break - reset (1 leg). Some adapters have it, and some don't. Here you only need to check, in my copy there was no built-in capacitor. As a result, the scheme is a little "complicated":
Well, now you can load the sketch into Duino's memory and try to do some experiments =) (LEDs are added to the photo - indicators of sketch loading):
In my opinion, it makes no sense to collect UNO in the form in which it is presented in the original. I always use this one:
Here everything is generally without crap - just 1 microcircuit and quartz. True, unlike the Arduino UNO, there is no power protection and USB - accordingly, uploading sketches is a bit more complicated. Let's figure it out.
Firstly, in this circuit there is only one voltage - the one that feeds the microcontroller. The arduino uno has a stabilizer - you give it 5 volts, it also gives out 3.3 to the adjacent pin. In all my practice, I have never needed both 5 and 3.3 volts at once in one circuit. That is, either 5 or 3.3 is used, but never both. All devices, screens and sensors, designed for 3.3, always stuck 5 volts and everything worked. Naturally, you need to read the datasheet (documentation) for these same sensors, maybe you have something mega-sensitive to the input voltage and it really needs 3.3 volts. Then you can put a voltage regulator and lower it to 3.3 volts. As usual, there are a couple of ways:
In general, there are a lot of perverted schemes with nutrition, but these are the main approaches.
There are also two approaches here. There is this thing called ISP: 
This is such a connector)) In order to make our new UNO work, we need a microcontroller. If you just go to the store and buy an Atmega326, you will certainly do well, but it will not work right away - you need to sew the Arduino bootloader into it. strangely enough, a second Arduino is needed for this. Already working Xs where do you get it, buy it in China or ask a friend to drive it. Basically, any will do. Let's call it conditionally programmer. And you need to connect like this:
pin name: not-mega: mega(1280 and 2560) reset: 10:53 MOSI: 11:51 MISO: 12:50 SCK: 13:52
pin name : not - mega : mega (1280 and 2560 ) reset: 10:53 MOSI: 11:51 MISO: 12:50 SCK: 13:52 |
If you got it somewhere as an Arduino Mega programmer, then use the last column to connect. If other arduins serve as a programmer, then the second one. The first column shows the legs of your new purchased atmega. Next, in the working arduino (programmer), we fill in the sketch from the samples with the name ArduinoISP:
And here we have two options:
If everything is clear with the second option .. Then the first one requires clarification. Click Tools - Programmer - Arduino. And then Tools - Burn bootloader.
After that, we turn off the Arduino and now we need a USB to ttl serial Converter. After we got it, we need to connect it to reset, d0 (rx), d1 (tx) of our newly flashed atmega.
The essence is the same, just do not forget to add a resistor and a capacitor to reset (see the first option).
After that, everything will be flashed in the same way as a regular arduino.
