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» Bracket for antenna hand drawings. Antenna bracket. Installation of anchor bolts

Bracket for antenna hand drawings. Antenna bracket. Installation of anchor bolts

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The Internet in Russia is developing rapidly. But only in cities. In most rural settlements for 2016, only Internet tariffs offered by cellular operators are available. There is no honest unlimited connection in such companies and is not expected. Therefore, neither ip-tv nor video from You Tube is practically available to rural residents, large files “eat up” all limited traffic. Cable networks are not going to come to the village, it is financially unprofitable.

Still, progress does not stand still. In rural areas there are a huge number of people who can earn money. Therefore, firms began to appear, working with cable networks, providing unlimited Internet by transmitting data through an antenna. A transmitter is placed on the nearest tower, to which an antenna mounted on buildings is directed, and unlimited Internet appears in a private house.

The only condition is that the transmitter must be in direct line of sight of the antenna. Tall buildings and trees significantly reduce the data rate, so the higher the antenna is placed, the better the signal quality will be.

Each case has its own installation methods, for example, in our example, I had to make a bracket and a mast for the antenna with my own hands, since nothing like this is sold in stores.

We took the most affordable materials for work, which are lying in the corners of almost every yard. The antenna mast was electrically welded from two pieces of old half-inch water pipes. The main thing is that the two pieces of pipe must be exactly aligned with each other so that the mast is as even as possible. Its length turned out to be 4 meters, in our case it is quite enough. The welding site was cleaned with an emery wheel and set aside.

AN ANTENNA BRACKET WITH YOUR HANDS

Now we need to make a bracket that will hold the mast for the antenna. For these purposes, we take a corner 5 by 5 cm and a square pipe measuring 2 by 2 cm. We cut them into pieces with a grinder to get 2 pieces of about 50 cm each. over the wall. We have this distance equal to just 50 cm. Using electric welding, we weld square segments perpendicular to the corners.

Now you need to pick up another one into which the mast for the antenna will be inserted. We found a suitable piece with a diameter of an inch and a quarter, about 1 m long. At the bottom of it, we will weld two nails crosswise so that the mast does not fall through. The pipe has two holes with a diameter of 9 mm.

We insert the mast into it and drill through the same places with a 9 mm drill. Check the alignment of the holes by inserting 8 mm bolts into them.

Next, we will weld the pipe to the squares, stepping back from its edges by 10 cm. First, we will weld one part, setting the parts perpendicular to each other.

Then we will do the same with the second part. Our bracket is almost ready.

To strengthen the structure, we weld 2 reinforcement bars diagonally. Thus, the bracket received the necessary strength.

In each corner we will drill 4 holes with a diameter of 11 mm.

The antenna mast and bracket are ready. You can send them for painting.

While the parts are drying, we will carry out preparatory work for the bracket. We will attach it to the house. Since the distance from the ground to the installation site is 5 m, we will build small scaffolding for convenient operation. We will make them from logs and boards. The structure must be made with excess strength to ensure the safety of high-altitude work. From above we will install a flooring from a tesa.

We will put a ladder on the scaffolding, from which we will carry out the installation. First, raise the bracket, lean it against the pediment and mark the places for fastening with a pencil. Drill 8 holes with a screwdriver. The gable boards, 25 mm thick, are not strong enough to hold the bracket with the mast and antenna. Therefore, on the reverse side, in the attic, in the places where the holes were drilled, we will install two more boards 5 cm thick, placing them perpendicular to the gable board. We will firmly fix them on the rafters.

Once again, with an already elongated drill by 11, we drill. We install the bracket, insert bolts with a diameter of 10 mm into the holes.

On the reverse side, we fix them with nuts, placing enlarged washers under them and tighten them with a wrench.

Our bracket is firmly fixed on the gable of the house.

Next, let's install the antenna. We attach it to the edge of the mast, placing it in the right direction, climb to the roof and insert it into the bracket pipe from above. Insert 8 bolts into the holes drilled in the walls and tighten with nuts.

Since we kept the distance of the bracket from the wall by 50 cm, the antenna mast runs next to the crate. Let's take an aluminum suspension, squeeze the mast with it and fasten it to the boards with self-tapping screws.

Such a home-made design is reliable and durable, the cost of materials and production time are minimal. If the mast is even longer, it is advisable to fix it with steel wire braces. Now it remains to set up the antenna and use unlimited Internet. If you liked the article, share it on social networks.

By equipping the suburban area, we try to make it as comfortable as possible for recreation. And this means that over time it acquires the amenities that we are so used to in everyday life - water supply, heating and, of course, electricity. And where there is the latter, sooner or later television will definitely appear. But how, you ask, to spend it in the country, if the purchase of an antenna, which, by the way, is quite expensive, is not provided for in the personal budget? Yes, very easy! A few basics of radio electronics, a couple of pieces of iron and a minimal soldering kit, and now, well tired in the garden, you are located on the country terrace to watch the evening news block.

Radio electronics and television: simply about the complex

The most important thing for any antenna is its ability to interact with a signal distributed over the air.

Currently, TV broadcasting is carried out in a single range - decimeter, and television transmitters cover almost the entire more or less populated area. This makes it possible to "catch" a TV signal anywhere.

But for this you have to take into account a few simple nuances.:


Based on this, among the whole variety of television antennas, the most accessible for self-manufacturing will be such types as:

  1. All-wave (frequency independent)

It does not have high parameters, but it is the simplest and cheapest to manufacture - it is based on a metal frame, and ordinary beer cans or other tin containers act as receivers.

  1. log-periodic range

Such an antenna can be compared to a fishing net that sorts prey when it is caught. This type of antenna systems also has a simple design, but provides higher parameters than the all-wave.

  1. Decimeter zigzag

For the decimeter range, the dimensions and complexity of the design of such an antenna are greatly simplified, and it can work in almost any reception conditions.

The subtleties of manufacturing television antennas

The elements of the antenna, through which the useful signal currents pass, are always connected by soldering or welding. But if the device is placed outdoors, for example, on the roof of a country house, such contacts will soon be corroded by corrosion.

If we are talking about a home-made antenna for giving, you should not strive for the ideal quality of contacts - if they rust or burst, then at least not soon. But it is desirable that the connections in the antenna design be as small as possible, which will provide stable and fairly clean reception.

The braid and the center core of the coaxial cable are currently made of inexpensive alloys that are resistant to corrosion. Unlike classical copper, they are difficult to solder. Therefore, care must be taken not to burn the cable.

For the manufacture of the antenna and its cable connection, it is desirable to use:


Aluminum wire for the manufacture of antenna elements should not be used - it will oxidize very quickly and lose the ability to conduct an electrical signal. Copper or cheaper brass is best suited for this.

The antenna receiving area should be as large as possible. To do this, several metal rods of the same metal should be symmetrically attached to the screen - a frame that screens out ethereal and electrical noise.

Buying a simple signal amplifier that connects directly to the antenna will solve the problem with a weak and dirty signal.

As a result, the system will provide normal receiving power. All that is needed for this is to take the antenna to the roof of the country house and point it towards the nearest television tower.

Do-it-yourself frequency-independent antenna

The simplest all-wave is a pair of metal plates mounted on a wooden rail and connected by several turns of copper wire of any diameter. The width of such an antenna should be equal to its height, and the opening angle of the canvases should be 90 °. It is not necessary to solder the wire to the point of zero potential of the all-wave - it is enough to ensure its reliable fastening.

The frequency-independent antenna is capable of receiving both meter and decimeter signals from almost any direction. The disadvantage of this option is the unity gain and zero CPD - an indicator of the ratio of the signal power received to the main lobe of the antenna to the sum of the interference power at the frequency received by the other elements. That is why the all-wave is not suitable for receiving a TV signal in an area with strong interference or where the terrestrial signal is too weak.

To make your own frequency-independent antenna, you will need:

  • antenna cable;
  • several tin cans;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • plug;
  • insulating tape;
  • screwdriver;
  • wooden rail;
  • copper wire.

Banks are fixed on a rail (mast) with electrical tape at a distance of about 7 cm from each other.

Self-tapping screws are screwed into them, to the protruding ends of which the stripped ends of the antenna cable are screwed. The latter is fixed on the rail and laid along the external building structures of the country house to the place where you plan to put the TV.

You can improve the design of the all-wave oven by adding a few more sections from tin containers. After that, it remains to securely fix its mast in a vertical position, connect it to the TV and set up the tuner.

Another option for an all-wave antenna designed to receive a meter signal is a fan vibrator, which is popularly called a slingshot antenna.

Production of a log-periodic television antenna

The “speech therapist” antenna is a receiving line (a pair of metal tubes) with halves of linear dipoles perpendicularly connected to it - pieces of a conductor with a diameter of a quarter wave of the working signal. The length and distance between the latter changes exponentially.

For the manufacture of a log-periodic antenna, it is necessary to perform a number of calculations:

  1. The beginning of the calculation of the length of the dipoles is performed from the second in length.
  2. Taking the reciprocal of the progression index, the length of the longest dipole is calculated.
  3. Then it remains to calculate the shortest - the first - dipole, and then, based on the selected frequency range, the length of the "zero" dipole is taken.

To achieve maximum receiving power, there should be a distance of 0.03-0.05 wavelength between the dipoles, but not less than twice the diameter of any of them.

The length of the finished LP antenna is about 400 mm. The diameter of the base of the LP antenna should be 8-15 mm, and the gap between their axes of the receiving line is taken no more than 3-4 dipole diameters.

For normal operation of the LP antenna, you need to select a high-quality and fairly thick (about 6-8 mm in sheath) coaxial cable. Otherwise, you will not be able to compensate for the attenuation of the decimeter waves, as a result of which the TV tuner will not be able to pick up the signal.

The cable to the receiving line cannot be fixed from the outside, as this sharply reduces the quality of signal reception.

When installing such an antenna, you need to ensure its wind resistance, and if you use a metal pipe as a mast, you need to install a dielectric insert - a wooden block - at least 1.5 cm long between it and the receiving line.

It is possible to improve the design of the LP antenna by installing linear or fan-shaped hangers of a meter field on it. This system is called delta.

Antenna scheme "Delta"

Zigzag antenna for giving

The Z-antenna system with a reflector provides almost the same TV signal reception parameters as the LP antenna. However, its main lobe is horizontally twice as long. This makes it possible to catch a signal from different directions, which is especially true for rural areas.

The decimeter zigzag antenna has small dimensions, but its operating range is practically unlimited. The material for the manufacture of such a system is a copper tube or aluminum sheet with a thickness of about 6 mm. If you chose the latter, soldering it with ordinary solder or flux will not work - in this case, the fastenings are made with bolts. For outdoor installation, such an antenna will be ready only after sealing the connection points with silicone.

The design of the zigzag antenna consists of the following elements:

  • barbell;
  • wire cloth;
  • metal plates for attaching the canvas;
  • cross rails;
  • dielectric plates and gaskets;
  • mounting plate;
  • feeder line;
  • power plate.

Any of them can be made with your own hands from improvised materials or purchased at the nearest radio electronics store.

The sidewalls of the Z-antenna are made of all-metal or in the form of a mesh covered with a sheet of tin. When laying a coaxial cable along the body of the antenna, its sharp bends should be avoided. To do this, it is enough to reach the side capacitive insert and not let it go beyond it. At the point of zero potential, the cable sheath is carefully soldered to the web.

This class also includes such types of antennas as ring and reflex, which are also not particularly difficult to manufacture.

Options for self-manufacturing television antennas in the photo

There are other types of antennas suitable for self-production - wave, "Polish", simple frame and even primitive satellite ones. But whichever option you choose, a competent calculation of the parameters is required. The technique can be found in the technical literature on radio electronics. However, it is much easier and easier to ask advice from those who already have experience in the manufacture of this kind of antenna.

Self-made antenna for giving on video

A properly selected antenna installation location will ensure uninterrupted signal reception and the absence of interference on the screen. Another influential factor is the reliability of the installation, in which all kinds of antenna mounts play a major role. From the practical experience of users, it has been established that the necessary stability is provided by a mast for mounting the antenna in combination with brackets.
The latter are a metal holder that is attached to the roof or wall for mounting a plate on it.

Surface strength ensures structural stability

Fixing the antenna mounts to the wall is also an important task during installation. So that the antenna mounting bracket is not torn off by the wind, and with it the dish itself is not blown away, anchor bolts and dowels are used. It is important to determine the location of the drill. For example, chimneys under the influence of precipitation often collapse, wooden surfaces crack or remain weakly stable in strong winds.
Installing TV antenna mounts is a very meticulous job compared to mounting a walkie-talkie antenna. By mortise method, they can be installed on the drain of the car, on the roof or on the side mirror / pipe.

Features of the mounts available on the site

Once you've decided on a mounting method, you'll need to purchase an antenna mount that matches that method and fits your chosen surface. In our store:

  • Mounts for satellite dishes meet the requirements for this type of product.
  • Designed for operation in different weather conditions.
  • Protected by a special coating from the negative effects of the environment, which increases their service life.

Bracket for the antenna of the satellite television system is used to install the parabolic mirror (dish) of the satellite dish in the allotted place and fix the dish in the desired position. Brackets can be homemade or included with the antenna system, but usually they are sold in the distribution network as an independent product.

On fig. The main elements of the satellite TV system are shown below, which includes a bracket for mounting the antenna with a set of fasteners.

The principle of operation of a satellite television antenna

Television has long been an integral part of everyday life. Television programs are watched in city apartments, rural houses and in the country. To receive television broadcasting signals from television satellites, reflective antennas of a parabolic configuration are used, commonly called satellite dishes or "parabolic". Functionally, a satellite dish (hereinafter referred to as ST) is a kind of reflector that focuses the received radio signals (similar to optics) onto a converter placed in the focal center of the parabola for subsequent conversion.

Note! It is the “dish plus converter” set that is commonly referred to as a satellite dish (hereinafter referred to as SA), and not a single parabolic dish.

On fig. below is a private house with a satellite dish on the wall

The bracket for the satellite dish, when preparing the installation of the antenna on the wall or on the roof, is selected for the corresponding type of SA. Regardless of the type of antenna device, SA as part of a satellite TV system works as follows:

  • A signal from an orbiting satellite in the form of electromagnetic radiation hits the parabolic surface of the ST;
  • In accordance with the laws of optics, the ST paraboloid reflects incident electromagnetic waves towards the focal center of the parabola;
  • At the point of the focal center of the ST paraboloid, a holder is installed with a converter fixed on it - a device for receiving the reflected electromagnetic signal;
  • The converter converts the frequency characteristics of the received satellite signal and transmits the converted signal through a coaxial cable to the receiver;
  • The receiver is an electronic device (outwardly resembling a familiar DVD-shnik), which receives a converted intermediate signal from the converter and generates video / audio signals for a television screen.

On fig. below is the CA of the Supral model with a bracket and a holder for the converter.

Types of parabolic SA

Depending on the direction to the satellite, parabolic SAs are divided into two types:

  1. Direct-focus SA, the geometric axis of which is directed strictly to the satellite. The converter of direct-focus antenna systems is located at a fixed distance from the surface of the ST along the geometric axis, partially obscuring the reception area on the mirror;
  2. Offset SA, the axes of which are not directed directly to the satellite, but somewhat below it. In this case, the signal reflected from the surface of the parabolic mirror arrives at the converter at an angle. In this case, the mirror is not shaded, since the focus of the paraboloid is shifted to the bottom of the dish.

Additional Information. In domestic use, offset SAs are more popular, which, in comparison with direct-focus systems, are cheaper and easier to install, configure and maintain.

On fig. The diagrams for focusing the reflected signal for both types of parabolic SA are shown below.

Ways of mounting the SA on the wall or roof of the building

To achieve a high quality TV signal from a satellite remote antenna, STs are installed in places that meet a simple criterion - the widest possible view of the sky and easy access to the dish itself during its maintenance. For the vast majority of satellite TV users, the walls and roofs of the houses where they live serve as the place for installing parabolic boxes. The antenna mirror is fixed to the wall or to the roof of the roof of a residential building using special masts and brackets. The antenna bracket differs from the mast in shorter length and increased rigidity. The maximum length of the bracket, called the outreach of the bracket, does not exceed 1.2-1.5 meters, while the length of the mast is 3.5-6.0 meters, and in some cases, the SA is mounted on masts 8-10 meters high.

On fig. below is a mast with a CT attached to it.

According to the type of surface to which the plates are attached, the brackets are divided into two types:

  • wall brackets that are mounted on a vertical plane (house wall, balcony, vertical pipes);
  • brackets fixed on horizontal planes (flat roofs, ground surface).

The most preferred option is CA wall mounts, since the reach within 1.0-1.5 meters from the wall is enough to ensure unhindered reception of the satellite broadcasting signal. If the dish bracket is mounted on the roof, then due to closely spaced obstacles, it is necessary to increase the height of the installation of the paraboloid. The higher it is installed, the greater the deviation from the vertical will be, which will make it extremely difficult to set up a satellite home TV system.

Requirements for CA brackets

During the operation of a home satellite system, the TV antenna bracket is affected by:

  • aerodynamic loads from gusts of squally or gale-force winds, which sharply increase with an increase in the diameter of the mirror and, accordingly, the windage of the paraboloid;
  • the weight load from the ST mirror, the converter, and wet snow adhering to the outer convex surface of the paraboloid. For example, the mass of an offset antenna with a steel reflector measuring 900x1000 mm is 8.0 kg.

In relation to the wall, outdoor wall brackets CA are consoles, therefore, under the total effect of weight and aerodynamic loads, a bending moment occurs in the attachment zone, initiating the destruction of a weak bracket or separation of its fasteners from the wall. There are cases when an incorrectly mounted CA mounting unit broke out of a concrete or brick wall, and the antenna fell down.

To ensure a long service life of reliable trouble-free operation of the satellite system, the bracket and its fasteners to the wall must meet the following requirements:

  • The bracket for the antenna must be strong in order to withstand the existing loads, and rigid, since the slightest deviation from the previously set position of the ST and the converter will distort the parameters of television signals;
  • The bracket should have the lowest possible dead weight, since it also affects the deviation of the antenna axis from the nominal position and the magnitude of the tear-off force;
  • The material of the bracket must ensure its geometric invariability when exposed to precipitation and sudden temperature changes;
  • The bracket must be corrosion resistant as a rusted steel bracket will not withstand the applied loads. To this end, its outer surface is covered with anti-corrosion powder enamel;
  • Mounting the bracket to the wall should provide long-term reliable fixation of the entire SA system.

To the greatest extent, these conditions correspond to products made of steel and aluminum of tubular, square or other profile section. There are certain differences between steel and aluminum products:

  • Steel brackets made of thick-walled pipes have good load capacity and are able to withstand significant mechanical loads. At the same time, they themselves are quite heavy, so they must be attached to reliable, strong walls;
  • Aluminum products are inferior to steel in terms of strength and rigidity. If the cross section of the bracket is incorrectly selected, it can be deformed in the event of an abnormal overload. The advantage of aluminum brackets is corrosion resistance - they do not need to be covered with a protective layer.

Varieties of brackets for SA

Depending on the method of fixing on a vertical wall, the following types of brackets for SA are defined:

  1. Flat-mounted consoles, characterized by the presence of a flat base plate, round or square, which is attached to the wall at several points. The advantage of a flat support is the uniform distribution of mechanical loads over the entire contact surface with the wall;
  2. Consoles with point mounting, requiring three support legs. The advantage of point fastening is the absence of special requirements for the quality of the wall surface;
  3. Consoles with universal fastening, in which the supporting plane is represented by a strip with holes for local (point) fastenings to the wall.

On fig. The bracket types are shown below.

Bracket with universal mount

Brackets for CA are functional elements of a satellite home broadcasting system. The quality of TV programs in the home “cinema” depends on their proper installation and the quality of mounting on the wall. Underestimation of the strength properties of the bracket (the so-called "weakened section") will necessarily lead to the forced replacement of the old mount and costly reworking of previously completed installation work, followed by adjustment and adjustment of the telesystem.

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