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Make a dia / film / projector with your own hands from scrap materials? Easily! Today we present another homemade product. Whether it is original or not, you, the readers of the site, will decide.

Someone may say that it is not worth wasting time, the market for real such equipment is full of any products. They are able to depict your trip to the exotic on the wall in the highest quality, to illustrate enlarged slides and frames of the developed photographic film.

But the ideas of homemade projectors are floating around, waiting for craftsmen, and we will show you how to translate them into cardboard, metal and lenses.

We design on the wall

But the spirit of an old childhood lives in us, which children and grandchildren should feel. It is for them and with their help that such pleasant crafts are created. We advise you to consider copies in the photo of a homemade projector.

And now a mini excursion into history. At the end of the fifties, when television was just emerging in the USSR, simple and inexpensive devices called overhead projectors were on sale.

The best of them - FDG-49 - still evokes nostalgia for many, remaining the most expensive on the Internet.

Why the prefix "dia" was not explained then, today the slide projector is referred to as a slide show with captions. "Dia" - translated from Greek - "movement through" or "from beginning to end."

Below we will offer the most advanced home-made people to create a semblance of FDG or its improvement in 1970 - already an F-1 filmoscope worth 6 rubles. for those times with its lighting.

They were intended to display on a fairly large area of ​​white fabric or a whitewashed wall of sold photographic films with frames of fairy tales, something frozen like a cartoon, with short texts of explanations.

So home theater

A product made from a shoe box, a lens or magnifying glass of large diameter and a smartphone.

Here are the ways to make a projector and the technology of creation:

A hole is cut out in one of the smaller parts of the box, strictly in the center and diameter of the magnifying glass (at least tenfold). The center is defined at the intersection of lines from 4 corners.

The lens or magnifier is attached to it with adhesive tape, cardboard side plates on the outside, fixed with a glue gun, or in another way of your choice.

Inside, closer to the back wall, install a smartphone on a cardboard stand, turn it on at full brightness and set the angle so that the pictures come out of it completely and with the highest quality.

The Video Rotate And Flip application needs to be introduced into the phone. It is necessary because the picture from the phone falls 180 degrees from the vertical. And it needs to be turned over.

The duration of the “session” and powerful lighting will “put down” the battery, so broadcast with a charger connected to the network and to your mobile phone.

No complicated expenses for a projector, except, perhaps, instead of a magnifier and insufficient focus of a conventional lens, get a Fresnel lens. But it has an advantage and a disadvantage: the image is blurry at the edges, but it focuses well in the center.

The picture on the screen will be brighter if you choose the right distance from the projector to the screen: the closer, the better.

After the first session, you can immediately improve the projector by changing your smartphone to a tablet, changing the mount. Improved broadcast will only be in complete darkness in the apartment. Parents, children, your guests will be delighted to watch on the big screen.

Attention to the screen!

This is a very important point about creating a primitive projector and holding a slide show. The best reflector of pictures is a special canvas.

But you can attach whatman paper with dimensions of 594 x 841 mm (A1 format) to something. It is cheaper than canvas.

Another homemade

Image translator in general in five minutes. What you need to make a projector: from a battery-powered lamp or flashlight and a magnifying glass to view small texts. It's all. The lens is better Soviet and not very convex.

Hang the screen, as mentioned above, from canvas or drawing paper. Place a stool a couple of meters from the screen.

Put slides in front of a flashlight, preferably in an inexpensive special stand - it is inconvenient to hold in your hands. Improve image quality by moving the stool.

So, we create a semblance of an F-1 filmoscope

In it, you can show frames from color photographic film moving from top to bottom with rubber rollers along the edges with a protruding handle from a half spool of thread.

A metal sheet of thin steel is needed, since the thing is not done for one session.

Three main parts are cut out of it (look at the website):

Main body. In the horizontal part, place a step-down transformer (12 V) - any household small size and a switch.

vertical part. This is a rack on which a box is hung from behind, in which the front and bottom parts are cut off, and the top is hinged on the rack.

In this box, a 12 volt autolamp for 21 candles is mounted in the cartridge opposite the frame window (in F-1 there was a six-volt and a transformer lowering to this mark).

Poke holes in this cover to allow the heat from the lamp to escape, but so that your viewers are not disturbed by random light.

A single-lens tube with a focus of 62.4 mm and a two-lens condenser behind the frame is attached to the front of the stand. The tube can be installed from a strong cardboard tube with a slot for moving the lens.

The maximum to the screen is three meters, the screen is 70x100 mm.

A multimedia projector is a very useful thing. With it, you can magnify the image many times over from a tablet, laptop or other gadget, watch photos, videos, a movie or a football match.

However, the cost of modern projectors is high enough that everyone can afford to have such a device at home. And for those who do not have enough money, but are eager to have an interesting and fashionable novelty, a life hack comes to the rescue - a master class on how to make a multimedia projector with your own hands. Let's find out how to do it and what is needed for this.

Master class "How to make a projector yourself out of a box and a magnifying glass"

So, the projector can be used with various gadgets - and the technology of its manufacture depends to some extent on this.

It is very convenient that for the manufacture of the projector, simple things are used that are available to everyone:

• a cardboard box of the appropriate size (for example, a regular shoe box is suitable for designing an image from a smartphone). Ideally, it should be black on the inside. If this is not the case, the box can be painted with black paint or pasted over with dark paper;
• large magnifying glass (loupe);
• electrical tape or opaque dark-colored tape;
• sharp knife-cutter;
• pencil.

Performance:

1. At the end of the box you need to cut a large round hole. Its diameter should match the diameter of your magnifying glass.

2. We fix the magnifying glass in the hole with the help of small pieces of electrical tape. This must be done both outside and inside the box.

3. You also need to cut a hole in the lid of the box so that the box can be closed tightly.

4. Be prepared for the fact that the image from the smartphone will not be very clear. In order for the picture to be in focus of the lens, slowly move the smartphone away from the far wall of the box.

5. To improve the quality of a photo or video projected on a wall or a special screen, you can make the projector larger and use a tablet instead of a phone as a source of multimedia information.

6. In this case, instead of a magnifying glass, you will need to use a Fresnel lens, which is made of hard transparent plastic. We take a box such that its end part is slightly larger than the tablet screen. And the hole in the box itself should be cut 1.5-2 cm smaller than the size of the lens.

7. If you wish, you can cut a small stencil-diaphragm with a hole for a smartphone for the same box - then such a projector can be used with different gadgets.

8. Carefully secure the lens to the front panel of the future projector using adhesive tape.

9. In order for the tablet to stand exactly inside the box, you need to use either a special case or a regular book and rubber bands.

10. You can make your own home projector out of an even larger box. If you decide to use a laptop instead of a tablet, then you will have to take an even larger box for it. Another option is to cut a hole on the side in the same size box, and install a lens opposite it.

11. Another nuance that must be taken into account is that the projected image will turn out to be upside down. To solve this problem, you will have to change the screen settings of your gadget (and in the case of a laptop, simply turn the device itself over, as shown in the photo).

12. Image projected from the screen

The development is completely mine, but remains unfinished and serial production. I will be glad if the most active brains take advantage of the idea.

It was planned to make a model of an inexpensive projector for shops. Not often we give all the best - so this article is one of them. It should project logos and shop names in the evening and at night.

Research

First of all, I dismantled the existing magnifier. There were 2 lenses. I wanted to make a very inexpensive but good projector.

I cut out the rims for the lenses and began to empirically select light sources and distances.

Different lamps gave results, but I realized that for a good and bright picture of our homemade photo projector, a spherical reflector is needed. It will just perform the function of a lens, giving us the opportunity to further simplify the design and increase efficiency.

The lamps are sold with a maximum power of 75 W and cost only $1 per lamp.

The brightness has increased exponentially. One 16mm lens + stained glass film:

Building a test instance

and at my request, they carved such a test case for me from a 2-inch water pipe:

Notches on the body served as grooves and markings for screwing in screws.

Matrix was made of ordinary transparent plastic on the same homemade CNC machine. Temperature measurements showed that the lamp body in some places heats up in a couple of minutes to 220 degrees Celsius! Here, no plastic will last long, but for further tests it will do.

I found a textolite rod on the market. He also had to grind a little and make recesses for the lens.

Video of milling and sampling on a CNC machine:

It's a pity I pressed hard and the lens broke off a little later.

The second sample of the projector

This time the projector was threaded and had a longer body to hide the lamp.

Crosses (although this is not according to the rules) indicate the holes.

Optics

I replaced the lens with a larger one. The magnifying glass was 10x50 mm. The pipe is also slightly larger. The brightness has increased even more.

For all Chinese magnifiers, the increase does not seem to coincide with what is written, and for different manufacturers with the same magnification and diameter, the result of the increase is different. This made it a little difficult to choose the optimal case sizes.

Matrix

I decided to make the matrix for this projector like this:

1. Print the drawing with a laser on a transparent vinyl film

2. Remove the heat-resistant glass from the lamps

3. Assemble the sandwich with superglue

How durable this is, I don't know. During short tests, everything went smoothly, but I probably still need to learn how to do without film.

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Projector assembly

After installing the matrix, we twist the lens and adjust the focus of the picture.

It was a breakthrough in "needlework". An article published in Russian that described in detail the process of building a projector at home based on an overhead. Although I had previously stumbled upon the French site AllInBox.com, I completely underestimated the information I found.

After reading the article in Russian and "entry" into the essence of the process, several more resources on the topic were found.

The iXBT.com conference “Do-it-yourself home theater projector”, at that time one of the most theoretically savvy forums on the topic. The theory was discussed there, there were few practitioners, but theorists zealously built their virtual projectors. This is a good school for beginners. True, today there are already more than 130 pages and it is very difficult to re-read them in one gulp. I advise you to take a notebook and a pen to take notes, because. Lots of material and very interesting ideas.

The already mentioned French site AllInBox. An excellent site entirely dedicated to projector building. A huge gallery of finished projects, theory, links, daily updates, in general, a class.

One of the Russian-language resources dedicated to projector building is the site "Homemade LCD projector for home theater". An excellent Russian-language resource, the theory is well described, a gallery of finished projects, a forum, everything is on the topic. Respect and respect to the authors of the resource.

The theory was studied thoroughly, as it seemed then, but the manufacturing process itself was constantly postponed, then the topic was abandoned, first due to lack of funds, then time, then because of other projects.

At the beginning of the winter of 2006, after another fall of the Axis and a global reinstall and cleaning the car, I stumbled upon the “Cinema” folder in my bookmarks, and again caught fire with the topic. The theory was repeated in just a few days, and the harsh practice of projector construction began.

First a little theory

Our projector is no different from the usual "projection apparatus" that we all studied at school in physics lessons. A projection apparatus is an optical device that forms optical images of objects on a diffusing surface that serves as a screen. According to the method of illumination of the object, diascopic, episcopic and epidiascopic projection devices are distinguished. In our case (in a diascopic) projection device (slide projector), the image on the screen is created by light rays passing through a transparent object (in our case, through an LCD matrix).

Diascopic projector: 1 - light source, 2 - condenser, 3 - object (LCD panel), 4 - lens, 5 - screen.

In our case, the "light source" is a lighting system consisting of a metal halide lamp, a spherical reflector and a capacitor. The metal halide lamp, with its low power, gives a very powerful luminous flux, plus it provides a color temperature that halogen lamps cannot provide. Plus, the duration of work is about 10,000 hours, while it does not burn out like a halogen, but simply loses its brightness. A spherical reflector that stands behind the lamp and reflects light coming in the opposite direction from the LCD matrix.
Today, some enthusiasts use LEDs as a light source, and get good results. http://www.allinbox.com/DARTG_BOX/DARTG_BOX.htm very worthy LED project.

The "condenser" in our case is two Fresnel lenses. It's like a regular lens, only flat, due to the fact that its spherical surface is in the same plane in the form of grooves.

"Object" in our case is a matrix from a conventional LCD monitor or TV. She works for the light.

"Lens" - triplet. A lens of two convex and one concave lens to correct aberrations (such distortions).

"Screen" - a homemade screen made of banner fabric.

In general, light from a metal halide lamp through a condenser lens, passes through the first Fresnel, passes through the matrix, while receiving information about the color of each pixel. Then it passes through the second Fresnel, gathering into the lens. Passes through the lens and forms an image on the screen. In my case, there is a mirror between the second Fresnel and the lens to rotate the light 90 degrees.

There are also such issues as the case, cooling, focusing mechanism, cooling off delay timer, we will consider these and other issues as we work on the project.

In general, there is a huge place for a flight of fancy, and the most important thing is to understand the principle of its work, and the rest is a matter of technology. In the above sources, you can find a lot of information on the theory of projector construction, as well as many practical implementations of the project, you can peep how certain components of the system are made (installed, which ones are used).
Huge gallery of finished projects on AllInBox website http://www.allinbox.com/allinbox2007.htm - and that's just for this year.

Decision-making

First you need to decide on the choice of components, that is, the diagonal of the matrix, lamp power, lens type, etc. After weighing all the "pros" and "cons", the decision was made: Matrix - 15", Lamp 250W, Lens from Lumienlab for 15" matrix, everything else along the way.

In order to make a positive decision on the construction of the projector, an estimate was drawn up, which was adjusted during implementation. Before construction began, it was a little less than $400. Really decreased due to the purchase of a used monitor. So let's say that the projector cost $350.

Construction costs:

After drawing up the estimate, a 3D model was developed, which prompted the use of studs and the principle of lens mount.

To build the model, a calculator was also used, written by the French and designed to calculate the distances between the system components. http://allinbox.free.fr/Programmes/calculeimagev3.rar

The calculation result is shown in the figure:

Practical implementation

So, after moral preparation for the implementation of the project and the adoption of the final decision, which happened spontaneously, it is time to buy components.

The first thing to buy was the Fresnel lens, the LCD monitor and the lens component, which is impossible to make yourself, and constitute the most expensive item in the project.

There are very few Fresnel sellers, I would even say a mega-few. The most important Lumenlab.com - Americans, Asians - is the site 3Dlens.com, the French Izzotek.com, Domestic piskovatsky.narod.ru - the site of Oleg Piskovatsky aka Paramon5. Of course, you can also cite the Germans as an example - exclusiv-online.com, there are a lot of kits for projectors with small matrices.

Since it was initially decided to build a projector on a 15” matrix and use a sharpened lens, Fresnel decided to order the lens from Lumienlab. There were no problems with placing an order, an S15 kit was purchased, which included 2 Fresnels and a Triplet. Payment by Visa card, delivery by USPS (American Post). Delivery two weeks, and now the box is received, we open it, everything is in place, packed perfectly, nothing broke.

Next purchase LCD monitor. I did not want to buy a new monitor in order to screw it up (remove the matrix), so the choice fell on the Second Hand technique, which can be found in plenty at the eBay.com auction. The purchase of the monitor took a very long time, firstly, because of the lack of experience in this auction, and secondly, because I chose a budget of $80 for the purchase of a monitor. After a month of communication with the auction, understanding the principles of its work, it became clear that for such a price it was impossible to buy a normal 15 ”LCD monitor (there was a sad experience of purchasing for $30 with delivery, supposedly a matrix with a controller from the monitor, the matrix arrived broken into chips).

The budget was set at $100 +/- $10 and things started to get better. For $67+$40 (shipping) a great Xerox monitor was purchased. In good condition, fully working. Delivery took 9 days.

While moving towards Ukraine, Fresnel and Monitor, a Lamp, a cartridge, a ballast (ballast) for the lamp were bought. A metal halide lamp from the gas discharge category, it does not have an incandescent filament, in it the gas pumped into the burner glows when an electric discharge arc passes through it. Therefore, the lamp needs a choke as well as an IZU (ignition unit). Everything is sold in a store that sells lamps and fixtures. A Chinese Deluxe lamp was purchased for 250 W, 5800Lm, 4800K, as well as a choke and IZUShka.

The lamp was chosen from the outset to be inexpensive for carrying out experiments and starting work; today it needs to be replaced with a metal halide lamp with a ceramic burner. These lamps have more luminous flux.

M6 threaded studs were chosen as the mechanism for fastening the frames, in order to be able to adjust them. They needed 2 m or 4 by 0.5 m.

Further, the light block is assembled on an aluminum plate. The bracket for mounting the cartridge has the ability to adjust the position of the lamp. The spherical reflector was bought at a flea market, most likely from some kind of overhead. It is fixed with M3 studs and aluminum plates.

The condenser (condenser lens) is a different story altogether. There were many and different ones, all burst due to the high temperature, as they are very close to the lamp. Now there is a 120mm capacitor from a film projector, but it also burst. It practically does not affect the image.

All this miracle of lighting technology is naturally centered and is in a stainless steel bowl. At first, only the bowl was a reflector, as many foreigners do. But a bowl as a reflector, to put it mildly, is like a sieve as a bucket. Therefore, a normal spherical reflector was installed, and the bowl began to perform a different function, evolved into a heat shield. It does not allow heat to heat the walls of the case.

Above the light block is a heat filter made of K-glass. It transmits light and prevents heat from damaging the matrix. The Matrix is ​​a very gentle creature, it works at temperatures below 60 degrees. At higher temperatures, it shows nothing, turns brown and dies. The glass is fixed with corners made of the same aluminum.

Fresnel frames and matrix were made of 1.5mm thick aluminum sheet. Everything was cut into strips with a jigsaw and assembled on rivets.

Matrix

The matrix from the LCD monitor will form the image of our projector. To do this, it is necessary to remove the working glass of the matrix, while not damaging the flexible cables glued to it, otherwise it will be covered. Of the entire monitor, we need a “glass” with a controller, a monitor controller and a power supply. Matrix backlight lamps and an inverter to power them are not useful to us.
It is better to disassemble the monitor in a calm environment, but a clean table without foreign objects. All the screws that will be unscrewed during disassembly should be put in some kind of box so that they do not fall on the working surface of the table and you do not damage the working surface of the monitor.

So, we take our monitor, turn it over, and unscrew all the screws that can be unscrewed. Naturally, after this, the monitor case will not open, since it has locks around the perimeter. In our case, you can act rudely, but it’s still better if the case is opened in a more civilized manner.

Under the back cover, a control board or monitor controller and a matrix backlight power inverter are found. Some monitor models still have a power supply, and in some it is combined with an inverter. In my case, the power supply is external.

Carefully, disconnect all the wires connecting the boards to each other. It is better to pre-record or photograph the connections, so that later you do not have to look for what is connected where.

The boards are attached to the monitor chassis, we don’t need the chassis either, so we remove the monitor controller board and the board with buttons. Although some creators use the entire chassis with boards, fixing it inside the case.

We unscrew all the bolts that are possible. In the upper part of the matrix, where the cable is connected, there is a matrix controller covered with a lid. Remove this cover. The controller itself is screwed to the aluminum housing of the matrix, we unscrew it. In some matrices there is another board located on the side of the matrix, connected by a cable to the main one. If it is, unscrew it too. The loop is naturally disconnected. Then we carefully bend the controller on the cables outside the matrix housing. That's it with these loops you need to be extremely careful, because. they are glued to the glass and the controller board, if they break, ALL, the end.

But all this wealth can be used in modding - a cold cathode lamp, a piece of light-diffusing acrylic, a lamp power inverter. You can make some kind of luminous stand, or just use a lamp to illuminate the insides of the case.

After removing the backlight, one frame should remain, in which the working glass of the matrix is ​​​​located. This glass with attached controllers will bring information about the color of each pixel into the light flux (to form an image).

The matrix is ​​fixed on the frame and attached to it with the help of glass furniture guides. They have a small gap, which prevents it from breaking when it is screwed on. First, the guides were installed, and then the matrix was ​​inserted into it.

The matrix controller is mounted on a perpendicular acrylic stand, which is attached to the studs. It may be better that it is attached to the frame, but in my case it was easier.

The matrix is ​​between two Fresnels. Although sometimes two Fresnels are connected together, and the matrix is ​​\u200b\u200bplaced over the Fresnels. The first, the so-called tube Fresnel, with a smaller focal length (220mm.). The lamp is practically in its focus and, according to the theory, the light after passing through it goes in a parallel beam the size of a Fresnel.

It is bolted to the frame with homemade holders. Although it was possible to buy a holder for a mirror that is used in the manufacture of furniture.

The second Fresnel, located behind the matrix, has a focal length of 310 mm. It is fixed on the frame in the same way as the first one. It is at an angle, this is a mechanical trapezoid correction. The fact is that if you install the projector not exactly perpendicular to the screen, but lower, then the image geometry will be disturbed, a so-called “trapezoid” will appear, the upper side is wider than the lower one. Setting the second Fresnel at an angle compensates for the trapezoid.

The next component of the system with the selected layout is the mirror. The frame for the mirror is made of aluminum, the elements that allow you to adjust the position and tilt of the mirror are made of 3mm acrylic. It is easier to mill grooves in it. Acrylic is attached to aluminum using the same rivets.

The mirror was bought in a conventional glass cutter, but for such things you need to use mirrors with an external reflective layer. After the first tests, it was decided to convert the existing, ordinary mirror into a “correct” one with an external reflective layer. To do this, a wash for the old paint "Wash VL-1" was bought on the market. With its help, the protective layer on the back of the glass was washed off, then it was all washed with soap and water. It turned out a mirror that reflected from both sides.

In an ordinary mirror, light passes through the glass, is reflected from the reflective layer, passes through the glass a second time, and is also reflected from the glass surface, so the image doubles. When using an external reflective layer, there is no ghosting.

The last component (in the description, not in importance) of the optical system of the projector is the lens. Lens purchased from LumienLab, but many use domestic lenses made in the USSR.

The lens is mounted on a PVC ring, which is glued into a 100mm piece of sewer pipe. Telescopic guides (from furniture fittings) are attached to both sides of the pipe, which I shortened, because. no big move needed.

The guides are screwed to the supports that hold the lens against the center of the mirror.

The lens moves along the guides, thereby focusing the image on the screen. For this, a motor with a gearbox is used. The gearbox is self-made, recruited from various gears, a swivel bar made of acrylic.

The mirror is at an angle of 45 degrees. to the stream of light so that the light turns 90 degrees.

In some places, the mirror frame and lens support are reinforced by creating a T-profile. All connections - corners, rivets.
Struts are installed diagonally on 3 sides, which give the chassis rigidity.

Centering of all optical components, lamps, fresnels, mirrors, lenses was carried out using a laser pointer. At the bottom, near the lamp, threads were stretched diagonally between the hairpins, and at the top, above the upper Fresnel. The lamp was placed in the center at the intersection of the threads. Then a mirror was exposed, so that when looking at the lamp through the lens, the upper and lower threads merge. Then they shone with a pointer into the center of the lens and finally exposed all the components so that the beam passed through the intersections of the threads to the center of the lamp.

Electrical part

The electrical part of the projector consists of a lamp switching circuit, in our case, a metal halide, and a circuit for switching on the matrix and lamp cooling system, in our case, fans.
The scheme for switching on the lamp is indicated on the IZU:

And the rest is a matter of fantasy. You can simply connect the fans to the monitor power supply, you can make a separate power supply. I decided to make a separate power supply with a timer, which would allow, when the lamps and the matrix are turned off, to blow them for some more time. It makes no sense to accurately measure the time, 10 min +/-50% is enough, so the simplest scheme of the timing chain was chosen.

It is difficult to recreate a complete projector circuit, something like this:

The unit has its own transformer (standby power). And only a transformer and a diode assembly. The button of inclusion (ON) with fixing. When it is turned on, the voltage is supplied to the relay, which turns on the lamp and the matrix, and also supplies +12 to the fan start timer. When the “ON” button is turned off, the fan relay remains on, since it is kept by the capacitor charge voltage in the base of the transistor, the capacitor slowly discharges and after about 10 minutes, the fans turn off.

A power connector is installed on the monitor chassis and there is a 5A fuse and a switch in the input circuit

In addition to the power button, there is also an extension button for 10 minutes. operation of the fans, lens control buttons (focusing), and light indication of the operation of the lamp, fans, and standby mode.

All control buttons and lamps are displayed on a separate control panel.

The monitor controller is attached to the mirror on an acrylic plate and connected to the matrix controller.

It is powered by the monitor's power supply, which must also be fixed in the case. There was no better place for him.

Also on the chassis of the projector, a VGA connector appeared, which is connected to the controller via a self-made cable.

The ballast for the lamp is located at the bottom, because the throttle weighs a good 3 kilos.

In this regard, the lower aluminum plate was screwed to the chipboard plate.

Frame

After the chassis was assembled, the whole thing was tested several times. As I already said, the mirror was redesigned, the condenser lens was replaced several times, because. constantly bursting, and then he had a body. Housing made of PVC, foamed, 4mm thick. Many are made from chipboard, I have nothing against chipboard, but PVC is a very easy-to-use material. It is cut with a clerical knife, glued with diffuse glue, drilled very easily, bends, in general, a miracle material. A whole sheet was purchased from advertisers. The cutting of the sheet went without any drawings, the configuration and implementation of the future case was invented on the fly.

The body is made up of 2 parts. The first is the right side, front and top, and the second is the left side and back.

4 fans were fixed in the right wall, which create air movement inside the case. Since the lamp generates a lot of heat, it needs to be cooled efficiently,
the following scheme was chosen, two 80mm. The fans stand opposite the matrix and draw air into the case, while blowing the matrix and Fresnels. Air reaches the opposite wall of the case, in which a slot is cut through which it enters the lower part of the case, into the lamp compartment, where there are two identical fans that draw air from the case. Thus, there is a rapid air exchange, and the matrix does not overheat.

There you can also see stiffeners glued on the back of the case.

The body is attached to the bottom chipboard board with screws.

The body parts are also connected to each other with screws.

The control panel is installed on the left side. It is fixed with a PVC clamp.

Screen

The screen can be bought ready-made, but you can also make it yourself. You will need a banner fabric, only matte and not glossy, and black self-adhesive. Instead of a banner fabric, it is better to use an awning fabric, the material is the same but denser, it has fewer wrinkles. It is better to stretch the fabric on a wooden frame. But if there is not enough space, you can make a folding screen.

On the white banner fabric, an edging is made of black self-adhesive, also matte. The black border gives a subjective contrast boost, highlighting the black color.

I made a retractable screen. The banner and edging was fixed on a wooden bar with rounded corners. Fastening - small shoe studs at a distance of 5 cm.

Screen width 2300 mm. Pieces of M6 studs are inserted into the ends. With the help of aluminum corners, the screen is nailed to the ceiling. Anchors dia. 8mm.

On one side there is a gearbox from the D219-P1 engine. And as a motor, a 12V DC motor from the printer was chosen. It is secured with an acrylic ring and M3 studs.

There is enough power to raise and lower the screen without any problems.

Well, in general, like everything. And finally, a few photos with the results.

In the dark:

With a 60W lamp on.

Good luck and happy modding.

Each of the parts of the projection apparatus is a separate story with many questions.

Many people like to watch movies. Fortunately, at the present time there is a mass of suitable equipment: from smartphones and tablets to large plasma and LCD TVs. But what if there is no large plasma nearby, but there is a large group of people eager to watch another good movie? That's right, make a projector. And how to do it yourself, you can read in our article.

Everything you need

If we are making a projector for a smartphone, then we will need: an ordinary cardboard box (for example, a shoe box), a large lens that can be safely pulled out of a magnifying glass, a small amount of cardboard, adhesive tape and glue.

The projector box will prevent outside light from entering, preventing the smartphone image from being refracted and diffused. The lens in this project acts as a lens. It, when properly adjusted, will begin to focus the light and transfer the image to the surface.

Of course, such a simple device will not come out perfect, with a clear and high-quality image, but you can study the primitive structure of the projector and enjoy watching a movie in the company of loved ones, and this is the most important thing.

Making a projector

First, we need to ensure a good "camera" image. With the help of black paint or paper of the same color, we achieve that the inner surface of our box is matte black. Thus, we will significantly reduce the reflection of light from the walls of the box and improve the image quality.

Then, at the end of the projector box, we make a slot that matches the diameter of the lens. This is necessary for a good fixation of the lens and the absence of gaps, i.e. extraneous light, which would definitely interfere with our viewing.

Next, we move on to the lens and the smartphone. There are at least two ways that we will tell you about. Fundamentally, they differ based on the composition of moving elements. In the first option, we will move the lens to properly focus and increase the clarity of the image. In the second option, for the same purpose, we will move the smartphone.

1. If you decide to make a movable lens, then you need to make a cardboard cylinder that would match the diameter of the lens in diameter, then, using glue applied to the end of the lens, fix it to the base of the cardboard cylinder. In length, this design should not be very large, it is enough that it provides a lens travel of 5-7 centimeters. The smartphone is fixed in one place and does not move anywhere.
2. Here, a smartphone acts as a moving element. In this case, we need to make a stable platform for the phone (from foam, cardboard or even a paper clip), which we will move around the box, thereby achieving maximum image accuracy. The lens in this version is fixed at the end of the box and acts as a static focusing element for the smartphone's light code.

Final preparations

After the installation of the entire structure, our preparations are almost completed. But it is worth paying attention to a few nuances:

1. inverted image

   The image from the smartphone, passing through the lens, is inverted. Naturally, watching videos in this format will not suit anyone. The easiest way in this case is to flip the original image 180 degrees. In this case, you will get a normal picture at the output.

2. Image clarity

   You need to achieve maximum image clarity. This is achieved by manipulating the lens in the first case, using a homemade lens, and moving the smartphone along the walls of the box in the second case. When the maximum image clarity is achieved, you can consider the setting complete.

3. Surface preparation

   It is advisable to prepare a wall, table or other surface on which films and other images will be broadcast. Ideally, it should be white, smooth and matte. For our small experiment, you can hang a regular sheet or take a thick white paper of large size.

4. Room preparation

   The room must be dark. Then, and only then, will your image be seen as clearly as possible, and you will enjoy viewing. If your private viewing takes place in the evening, it will be enough to turn off the lights in the room. Well, if the action takes place during the day, you can tightly hang the curtains and try to minimize the flow of light into the room with the projector. Do not forget to increase the brightness of your broadcast smartphone to the maximum - so the image will be the most clear and colorful.

Happy viewing!

Everything, now the entire process of assembling and preparing the projector is completed. It remains only to choose your favorite movie, get together as a friendly company and enjoy the movie. Let the movie show bring you a lot of joy, and the assembly of an elementary device from a shoe box will be quick and high quality.

For more information about building your own projector, we invite you to watch the following video:

Take it, tell your friends!

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